Day 31-35: Madison's Examination of the Ferry

Many Alaskans care little for the governmental goings-on of the Lower 48, and people out in the villages are all but unaffected by national politics, except when they pertain to logging, drilling, mining, fishing, or firearms. In such cases Alaskans feel forgotten and bitter that politicians over 5000 miles away are making decisions that have such a huge impact on their lives. A new hunting regulation, for example, would have minimal impact to an average “lower 48er” but if you live a subsistence lifestyle in rural Alaska it has extreme impact and causes bad feelings toward the government.

As such, Alaska’s legislators wield a freer hand in Washington than their counterparts in more densely populated states- essentially, they get to vote ‘yes’ on a lot of things… and earn a lot of favors. In 2005, the US Department of Transportation recognized the Alaska ferry system, known as the Alaska Marine Highway, as an “All -American Road,” qualifying it for federal funding. Every other road in this program has pavement, road signs, maybe a few gas stations along its sides. Apparently exceptions can be made.

At the recommendation of a dockworker, we staked out a pair of lawn chairs in the aft solarium, a partially-enclosed space at the rear of the ship. It would be our home for then next 4 nights. We dined on fruit, cereal, nuts, and PB&Js. As an extra treat, we brought some summer sausage and gnawed on it like cave men.

There are two main groups of passengers on the ferry, ones who have staterooms and ones who do not. Of the later group, which we were a part of, there are three sub-groups based on where you decide to sleep, people who sleep inside the boat on recliner chairs, people who pitch a tent and sleep in an area affectionately known as “tent-city,” and people who roll out their sleeping bags in the solarium. Each area is self-policed with self-coronated leaders. A resident of tent city complained one night that she was scolded by its “mayor” for being too loud at 9:30 PM… heinous.

The ferry left last Monday night at 7PM from Haines, Alaska and promised a beautiful 85 hour journey through the inside passage of Alaska and British Columbia. The boat was utilitarian and boasted few amenities compared to the mega cruise ships that regularly travel the inside passage. We knew the boat within 30 minutes of boarding. It is a place where you have to make your own fun. We were well-prepared, having visited a local microbrewery in Haines to pick up a couple growlers of high-quality ale. I finally read In to the Wild and was reprimanded by a native Alaskan for being the quintessential tourist.